FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS: (Price and Contact links are at the bottom of this
page) If we missed something E-mail us at:KonTour Seat 1. The
Polar Mesh looks really delicate, do I have to baby it?
Although it looks delicate, KonTour's
remarkable Polar Mesh top cover is incredibly durable and will wear longer - much longer
- than commodity grade vinyl or even high quality leather. Polar Mesh will take repeated
scuffing without marking or staining and is guaranteed for life for the original owner - and this includes
UV exposure - a first in our industry.
2. How do I clean and maintain it?
Polar Mesh requires absolutely NO maintenance. If it gets really
dirty you can spray it with a gentle stream of water. Never use high powered spray car washes
at close range since they can cut the fabric like a sharp knife!
3.
What if I get it wet?
Water will not hurt Polar Mesh, and your
seat is designed to allow water to drain through the mesh layer, off the waterproofing barrier and onto the ground.
The fibers are 100% polyester and cannot absorb water. Since we include a water proofing barrier in our design the foam
cores can never get wet - unlike other after market seats that have needle holes and allow water in and turn your seat into
a sponge! To dry your seat after a rainstorm or washing, simply blot the surface with a clean towel or let it sit in
the sun for a few minutes.
4. Is there a break-in period for my seat?
About 5 to 10 hours maximum as the layers "bed in". You'll immediately feel the seat adjust and conform after
sitting on it for about 30 seconds. Initially the seat will feel very firm compared to what you're used to sitting on. This
firmness is added support that is needed to enhance long term comfort. Your seat adjusts every time you (or someone else)
sits on it. During long rides you'll notice that you won't twitch or move around every 5 minutes like you did on your old
seat in an attempt to get comfortable.
5. Do you make wider seats?
Wider helps, especially for BIG guys to lower psi by off loading weight to adjacent tissue and bone structure. In our
opinion building a wider seat for normal sized riders is a rather inelegant solution. By creating a large, pressure distributing
area UNDERNEATH your ischial tuberosities we are able to vector forces in ALL directions simultaneously instead of just forcing
them out horizontally. Everybody has a "butt print" which is as individual as a finger print. Our seat literally
conforms to your butt print every time you - or anyone else your weight - sits on it. Visco foam flows from high pressure
to low pressure. Off loading occurs and comfort increases, without the drawbacks of widening. For heavier riders we construct
a MAGNUM seat, which involves changing the polyurethane and spherical layers and adding 3" composite wings to the outside
rear for more surface area. This design is recommended for riders from 225 to 350 lbs.
6. What about a taller or lower seat?
We build taller seats AND lowered seats - these
are frequent requests. Easy to do. We like to see a rider sitting fully in his seat, feet flat on the pegs with 10 to 30 degrees
of knee bend from vertical, depending on the style of bike. Weight should be distributed evenly - 50% between feet, legs and
inner thighs - 50% by your butt. Due to the additional time and materials required to construct these seats there will
be a small surcharge versus constructing a standard height seat.
7. What about
a backrest?
We strongly encourage the use of a good backrest that gives you support in your lower lumbar
region. This helps to encourage good posture and allows your spine to maintain an "S" shape. Good posture enhances
riding comfort dramatically and also will help to keep you positioned properly on your KonTour Seat. We sell BakUp brand
back rests for many brands and models. BakUp is the BEST on the market, bar none.
8.
Can you rebuild/re-cover my accessories to match?
We can build passenger seats, trunk rests, arm rests
and back rests to KonTour specification. The cumulative effect of having these additional components designed to KonTour specification
is impressive and will further enhance comfort. We can also re-cover your components with Polar
Mesh and water proofing/radiant heat barrier to match. Please note that we will remove your old cover and make
an exact pattern from it, so it cannot be returned. All custom work is quoted according to the amount of time and materials
it will take to complete the job. 9. How about making a seat deeper for tall riders?
More leg room to relieve a cramped
feeling works great, as long as the customer realizes that that it takes away from passenger space. We typically make the
seat deeper by reducing the thickness and density of the lumbar bolster. On many bikes making the seat deeper is impossible
since you would literally be riding on the rear fender.
10. What about "dishing"
a seat?
Dishing looks good on the surface but really often takes away a lot of the thickness of the
cushioning elements. Unless the ischial tuberosities (IT's or "sitting bones") are taken care of FIRST, no amount
of shaping, sculpting or dishing is going to help. Our seat "dishes" internally, then returns to the
natural shape every time you get off your bike. Your IT's are THE source of ALL downstream problems, known as reference pain.
Reference pain can manifest to your toes, and up to the base of your skull. Many riders come to us complaining about a back
problem, when what they really have is a seat problem!
11. Why don't you just use different
densities of "off the shelf", inexpensive, polyurethane foam in your seats - just like everyone
else?
Different densities of polyurethane only address one part of the equation - Indentation Force
(IF) or "springiness". By combining the best characteristics of polyurethane (IF), visco (damping and ergonomics)
and spherical (vibration isolation and energy management) foams you have a composite system that addresses all issues and
contributes to what we believe to be the best suspension on the market. The key to this system is selecting the correct densities
and thickness for each layer. We built and tested over 20 prototypes before we came up with the correct formula.
12. How long will my seat last?
You will NEVER wear our seat out.
We spent months exposing Polar Mesh fabric to Xenon arc lamp lamp testing and it passed
with flying colors. Polar Mesh will outlast cheap vinyl or leather by years. For sun
exposure there is no contest between polyester and vinyl. Polar Mesh is
is 100% polyester as is our thread. There is not a vinyl component in our seats, anywhere. Polar
Mesh is guaranteed for life to the original owner and this INCLUDES sun fading! Try finding a guarantee
like that from any of our competitors. 13. Why are your seats so expensive?
* Our
seats are five layers that are carefully assembled one at a time. Other manufacturer's seats are two layers - a block of foam
and a cover. Our competitors can make a complete seat in 2 hours from start to finish. Kontour seats take 6 hours to fabricate.
* Polar Mesh retails for $80.00 a yard, sorry, we do not sell it. High quality
leather (which you'll never see in a motorcycle seat from ANY of our competitors) retails for $55.00 a yard. Commodity grade
leather is about $25.00 a yard. So called "Marine" grade commodity vinyl retails for $7.00 a yard or less, and is
exactly what OEM and most aftermarket seat covers are made out of. Neither vinyl OR leather "breathe" compared to
Polar Mesh, period. On some seat designs we may need to use in vinyl in
some areas to accommodate fit and finish, but we never use it on contact surfaces. You'll hear a lot from other seat
manufacturers about how leather "breathes" - and that is pure and simple hogwash! Leather and vinyl are what is
known in the textile industry as water and vapor barriers. Ask for a sample of Polar Mesh
and when you receive it breathe through it - literally! If you tried this with a piece of vinyl or leather you would suffocate.
* The visco elastic foam we use retails for $96.00 for a 30" by 72" sheet. Common polyurethane foam, depending
on the density, ranges from $5.00 to $13.00 a sheet.
* The 100% polyester thread we use is made by Synthetic Thread
Company. Synthetic Thread is the company that supplies thread used in sewing hot air balloons - FAA certificated aircraft.
It costs 3 times as much as common thread and has much higher tensile strength for the same gauge because it has more filaments
per inch. By using high quality thread we can use a smaller size and more stitches per inch - and compress our seams to the
point that they are almost completely flat instead of prominent ridges that you see on most motorcycle seats. Ridges cause
pressure points - not good for comfort. Common black thread will fade in sunlight in just a few weeks and turn brown - take
a look at your OEM seat! Since our thread is spun from individual base filaments that are black to start with, instead of
dyed, it keeps it's color for years.
* We use Monel staples to attach the outer cover to the bottom of your seat.
Monel is 66% nickel and 34% copper. It does not rust or corrode, ever. Our competitors use steel staples. Even though this
is a component that does not show, it is very important. Steel staples rust really fast, especially in humid climates or if
your seat gets wet. This isn't an issue if you ride in Arizona, never in the rain, or never wash your bike. Monel staples
cost $28.00 a box - steel costs $4.00 a box.
* Instead of using "off brand" generic glue to assemble
your seat that retails for $4.00, we use 3M Foamfast 74 glue - that retails for $15.00. You'll see many of our competitors
seats where the vinyl has separated from the foam, leaving a baggy appearance to the top cover after only a few months. Bonding
strength of 3M Foamfast 74 is four times that of generic brand glues. |
14. Why not use a foam
mattress topper that I can get at
Walmart or Costco for $100.00 and make my own?
We're all for
do it yourself projects, but there are different grades of foam. Anything you can buy at a retail outlet is the lowest grade
made.
High quality foams have very specific uses and are highly engineered. The foam components we use are military specification
and currently in the space shuttle seats, as lumbar bolsters in helicopters and as headrests in F-16 fighter jets. The common
visco elastic foam that you see used in bedding is VERY poor quality as well as being unusable density for seats since it
compresses completely in high pressure applications. This force is known as Indentation Force (IF). If the foam selected does
not have the correct IF it is worthless. The "Swedish" or Tempur" bedding foam will literally turn into powder
within a year if exposed to the harsh enviroment that motorcycle seats endure. Our visco foam comes in dozens of configurations,
we select specific characteristics for seating use. Every component of our seats is guaranteed for life for the original
owner against defects, wear and tear and UV light exposure.
15. My seat
feels hard on cold days!
During cool/cold weather your seat will initially feel hard when you sit on
it. The visco elastic foam responds to pressure and/or heat to conform to your "butt print". It will take a few
extra minutes for the foam to fully respond when the temperature drops, you'll also notice it takes longer to rebound to the
natural shape of the seat when you get off. If you have heated seats, turning them on high for a minute or two will make the
foam respond much faster.
16. My butt still feels warm, what can I do
to get even more comfortable?
During hot and humid weather, wearing microfiber underwear is a big help.
You can purchase expensive "motorcycle specific" garments for up to $30.00, or generic garments for $5.00 at your
favorite discount store. In our experience we have found little difference in the results. The primary reason this works so
well is that microfiber does not retain moisture or heat and allows your skin to breathe, and does not bunch up like cotton
fibers. Look for garments without seams in critical areas where you contact the seat - those small seams over time create
pressure points and hot spots.
17. What is the best method of packing
/ shipping my components to you?
A quality cardboard box, no foam peanuts
PLEASE! - they are ecologically uncool and a pain to deal with! Wads
of newspaper are just fine. UPS and Fed Ex Ground ground are very competitive. Please do NOT use the Postal Service
- besides over paying for shipping you'll typically receive much slower service on large parcels.
18. How much does it cost to ship a seat, and how long does it take? Ball park $20.00 to $40.00 each way, anywhere in the US. Unlike all of our competitors we don't
consider shipping charges to be a profit center and "bake" inflated fees into our quote. We ship ground UPS
only and generally speaking it takes 1 to 5 days anywhere in the US. We charge as close to actual cost as possible in
order to keep these fees low. Customers requiring overnight shipping or requesting special services like insurance,
signing for a delivery or use of other carriers besides UPS will be notified and charged for these fees prior to shipping.
We strongly recommend buying insurance to cover the cost of replacement OEM seats and our finished product - we do not provide
this. We do provide tracking information from the time it leaves us until it arrives where you have specified with the
exception of international shipments. We will charge an additional handling fee when these services are requested in
order to cover the additional time filling out paper work or making special trips to shipping depots in order to meet deadlines.
Overseas shipping varies depending on the country. We are not responsible for customs, duty or other surcharges that
may be charged when our product enters a foreign country. It is up to the customer to determine and pay in advance to
us or others - when required - any fees described above.
19. Is there any other information you need at ordering time?
We need your weight and
inseam. Every seat is hand built, one at a time using one of nineteen different composites. The depth of the seat
can be adjusted for taller riders but this will intrude into passenger space - especially with a backrest.
20. How do I remove my seats?
They're really pretty easy to take off, and if you get
stuck we can help you out on the phone while you're doing it. NEVER cut any electrical wires going to the seat without obtaining
our advice first.
21. What about "ride in" and "custom
fitting" appointments?
We're more than pleased to have you ride in and wait while we make your seat, we do
this by appointment only. Depending on what you need done, plan on waiting up to one full work day per seat.
Your seat will be made to the exact same specifications as if it was ordered in advance and shipped to your door. The only meaningful custom sizing modifications anyone can perform are if you want the seat more narrow,
wider, longer, shorter, lower or taller. We discuss these needs with you prior to the seat build. When you - or anyone else - sits on a KonTour seat it will conform to that "butt print" within about
30 seconds. Our job is to select the specific composite thickness and density layers for your exact weight in
order to provide the correct amount of damping and spring rate. We want you sitting in the composite, suspended.
"Custom fitting" a motorcycle seat is pure
baloney and mostly a show - required only if you are using inferior old school commodity poly foams that do not have the flow
properties that our unique 3M visco elastic foams have.
There is absolutely
no custom fitting going on with a competitor's ride in. It might make you feel better since they'll undoubtedly spend time marking up
your existing seat with chalk circles and arrows, taking precise measurements, digital photos of you sitting on your bike
and asking you about your riding style, blah blah blah. They'll also usually charge you an additional fee of around
$75.00 for all this attention...
You're
then told to come back in a few hours while they fabricate the seat. The
minute you depart the shop anxiously awaiting your new seat this is what really happens: "Hey Joe -
make that seat our usual design - he'll love it!"
22. Will you work on seats that have
been previously modifed?
No,
we only work on OEM seats that have not been modified. They need to be EXACTLY as they
came from the original manufacturer.
23. Why will you only work on
OEM seats?
Asking
us to work on seats that have been previously modified by others is like asking a Ferrari technician to work on your 1973
Chevy Nova. We have no idea what has been done internally to the seat by a previous modifier. Many times these
modifications have completely trashed the interior of the seat with cheap carpet foam, off the shelf poly stuffing and all
kinds of interesting materials - even horse hair! We can ONLY modify seats to our exact specifications that are supplied
to us as they came from the factory with the OEM design and covering still intact. The condition
of the cover is not important since the first thing we do is toss it in the trash. The OEM foam must by uncut
and undamaged in order for us to build our composite and supply our life time warranty for the original owner.
Any seats sent to us in any condition other than OEM will be returned at the owner's cost plus a $50.00 handling fee. 24. What about retaining OEM seat heating, or adding heat to an existing seat without it?
Not a problem retaining OEM heat - it will function normally as designed. If your seats came without factory
heat we are pleased to built in an optional heating element which you supply. The element will have the wires exposed
on the bottom of the seat for you to hook up to your battery and switch. Many aftermarket heaters have bulky wires
and/or will stiffen a seat due to the extra layer. We are not responsible for comfort issues after we have installed
an aftermarket heater. Not all motorcycle charging systems can handle the extra start up load of heated seats especially
if you are running optional lighting, a heated vest, etc. Check with a knowledgeable motorcycle mechanic to make sure your
bike's system can handle up to an additional 70 watts or at least double the continual high output rating of your elements.
We are not electrical engineers and if you burn out your wiring, alternator or cause an engine fire we are not responsible!
25. Does Polar Mesh come in different
colors?
Like Henry Ford said - you can
have any color you want as long as it's black.
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